Three Cuts Above

Burgers are the lowest common denominator of beef, but cows have so much more to offer. We’ll help you steer higher.

By Ian Knauer | Photograph by Misha Gravenor

There’s nothing wrong with T-bone, filet mignon, or sirloin. But if you stick to the classics, you’ll miss out on the unique flavors from other parts of the animal. Yes, a massive slab of brisket or a Flintstonian bone-in rib eye can look daunting. But through the classes I teach at The Farm Cooking School (conveniently located on a working grass-fed-cattle ranch in Stockton, New Jersey), I’ve discovered recipes and techniques that deliver incredible meals. These dishes take more work than some, but consider the payoff in flavor equity. So skip the strip, call up your fellow carnivores, and serve one of these beefy beauties instead.

COOK THE COW

For the best-quality beef, hunt down a real butcher. No luck finding one? Ask around at your local farmers’ markets or farm-to-table restaurants for recommendations for a go-to meat maven.

steak

Spice-Rubbed BBQ Brisket with Smoked Garlic

This BBQ leverages a dry spice mix that penetrates the beef overnight. Then, after several hours in a smoker, it’s enhanced by a simple basting sauce. Sliced and served with summer sides, the result is heaven in the flesh.

What You’ll Need

  • 2 Tbsp coriander
  • 1 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 tsp black peppercorns
  • 1 tsp whole allspice
  • 2 Tbsp dark brown sugar
  • 1 beef brisket (4 lb), fat cap trimmed to ¼"
  • 1 cup chicken stock
  • ¾ cup apple cider
  • 1 bulb garlic, top cut off
  • 1 Tbsp olive oil

How to Make It

  1. The day before, pulverize the coriander, thyme, bay leaves, peppercorns, and allspice in a spice grinder. Stir in 1 Tbsp kosher salt and the brown sugar. Rub the brisket all over with the spice mixture; cover it and leave it in the fridge overnight.
  2. Add wood chips soaked in water for 1 hour to a smoker or grill and preheat to a steady temperature of 200° to 225°F. Combine the chicken stock and apple cider; set aside to use for basting. Place the brisket and the garlic in the smoker and smoke, keeping the heat at a constant 200° to 225°F and basting with the cider-stock mixture every 45 minutes or so. (Add wood chips as needed.) The beef is done when it’s very tender and reaches an internal temperature of 165°F, 4 to 6 hours.
  3. Remove the brisket from the smoker, wrap it in foil, and let it rest at least 20 minutes before slicing. Meanwhile, set the smoked garlic on a piece of foil, drizzle it with the olive oil, wrap it tightly, and put it in a 400°F oven for 15 minutes. Remove and use for smearing on a side of grilled bread. Serve the brisket with your favorite BBQ sauce. Expecting a crowd? Add grilled vegetables and potato salad. Makes 8 to 10 servings

steak two

Grilled Bone-In Rib-Eye Steaks with Charred Tomato- Onion Relish

Also called a cowboy steak, this cut of meat will quite possibly be the finest to grace your grill. The acidic punch of the relish complements the fatty decadence of the beef. Plus, the simple vegetable side comes together quickly, thanks to your already-sizzling grill. All you need to complete the meal is a cold beer.

What You’ll Need

  • 2 bone-in rib-eye steaks, 2 to 2½ lb each, 2" to 2½" thick
  • 4 medium fresh spring onions (not scallions), green parts intact
  • 3 Tbsp olive oil
  • 2 pints cherry tomatoes
  • 1 sprig fresh rosemary
  • 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar

How to Make It

  1. Preheat your grill to indirect heat. (For gas, turn one side of the grill to high. For charcoal, get the coals hot and ashy, then bank them to one side.)
  2. Season the steaks with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper and sear them over direct heat, turning occasionally, about 6 minutes total. Transfer them to the indirect-heat side and set a medium cast-iron skillet over the direct heat. Close the grill lid and cook the steaks until they hit 110°F (rare) in the center, about 30 minutes. Remove the steaks and let them rest 10 minutes.
  3. While the steaks grill, make the relish: Brush the spring onions with 1 Tbsp olive oil and add a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook the onions in the skillet, turning occasionally, until they’re blackened in places and tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer them to a cutting board and coarsely chop. In the hot skillet, add the remaining 2 Tbsp oil along with the tomatoes and rosemary, 1 tsp salt, and ½ tsp pepper. Cook, covered, until the tomatoes soften, about 12 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and onions and season with salt and pepper. Serve the relish with the sliced steaks, using the rosemary sprig as garnish. Makes 4 to 6 servings

steak three

Slow-Roasted Eye-of-Round Roast with blackened-Red-Pepper Steak Sauce

Roasting this beast over low heat for an extended period of time yields an even, rosy color and supreme succulence. For the juiciest eating experience, bring the beef to medium rare. Then serve up slices as a steakhouse would: accompanied by sauteéd spinach with sliced garlic and a big pour of red wine.

What You’ll Need

  • 1 beef eye of round (4 lb)
  • 2 large red bell peppers
  • 1 small garlic clove, chopped
  • 1 small shallot, finely chopped
  • 2 Tbsp cider vinegar
  • 2 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 Tbsp honey or molasses
  • ½ tsp red-pepper flakes
  • 2 Tbsp olive oil

How to Make It

  1. The day before, rub the beef with 4 tsp kosher salt and 1½ tsp freshly ground pepper; then cover it and let it chill in the fridge overnight.
  2. Let the beef stand at room temperature for 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 225°F, set the beef in a roasting pan, and cook it to an internal temp of 120°F (rare), 1½ to 2½ hours. Transfer it to a cutting board and let rest 20 minutes before thinly slicing.
  3. While the beef roasts, make the red-pepper steak sauce: Set the peppers on a grill or under a broiler; turn them occasionally with tongs until they’re blackened all over, 15 minutes or so. Place them in a bowl and cover with a plate. Wait about 15 minutes and then remove and discard their skins, seeds, stems, and ribs. Puree the peppers in a blender with the garlic, shallot, vinegar, Worcestershire, honey, and red-pepper flakes; add salt and pepper to taste. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan on medium. Pour in the sauce and bring it to a boil on high, stirring often. Lower the heat to medium; simmer until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve the beef with the steak sauce and some sautéed spinach. Makes 8 to 10 servings

Photographs by Sam Kaplan


Slice Meat The Right Way: Eye of Round

steak animation

steak animation

steak animation

Slice Meat The Right Way: Rib Eye

steak animation

steak animation

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